Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Whitcomb + Shaftesbury UK Bespoke One Button Gray Blazer-No Pants-Fit 43 Short at the best online prices at eBay! I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. No its certainly worth asking, but do try to be specific in what you would like. How would you compare them to Tim Everest or C&D for MTM in terms of quality and value? Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? Thanks for your advice though, its useful. Vergallo doesnt get enough attention they remain excellent value. Thanks! Very best. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Was this cloth amongst their offerings at their base price or was there a cost supplement? Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Im afraid its still some way off those at least in terms of finishing. Before you raise an eyebrow, keep in mind that some of the best bespoke garments in the world come out of India, and having ordered a Classic Bespoke overcoat, suit and smoking jacket myself, Im very happy to vouch for its impressive quality. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury is based on George Street in Mayfair, just a few paces from Savile Row, and offers two bespoke services: its Savile Row Bespoke service, which is made in the. Would you recommend high rise or mid rise? Have a look at our Suit style series for other advice too, Sorry if im asking something youve already been asked, but are there any other comparable offerings in this price range/overseas production for a first foray in to bespoke, or are W&S out there on their own in this regard. According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Interesting article. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Thank you for your help and the great website. I look forward to reading about your experience in the near future. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Explore. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. But yes, you can certainly request a little less. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Ask them and theyll show you the various options. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. Apologies if these are ignorant questions, but this will be my first foray into bespoke (thanks to the amazing information youve provided on this website)! Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. I worry, however, that they might be a bit expensive. The term bespoke comes from the verb bespeak, which means to speak for something. Fit not good. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. Thanks for your reply. Great article . Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Cloth: Holland & Sherry, Classic Worsteds, 12/13oz. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. P.S. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. It does not matter if WS are getting some part of the work done in India, the suit looks fantastic in the photos. Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Bespoke 2 Button Sport Coat 48 S. Fabric is soft with a fur appearance. This is the process by which my suit was also made. Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Are there any other tailors in the Milan/Northern Italy area that I should consider as well, that would be great starting points to the high-end bespoke world? Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Richard, Hi Simon What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). I would estimate 9cm but if you get a chance to measure it I would be grateful. I do think its worth asking, as they are generally quite open to such ideas, but at the same time if they seem hesitant then dont push it. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. What i wanted was them to guide on what would look best based on their (extensive) experience, which they never really gave. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. I am considering the Classic Bespoke option for my first bespoke commission. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Their classic bespoke service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. I was wondering if you knew how prices for Saville Row Bespoke and Classic Bespoke have changed at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury since this article was written in 2016? Thanks, and great suggestions. Thanks! Good point, and I assume you mean 1632 with VAT. I had suits made in both, in order to compare them. Thanks for your reply Simon. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Another question: in another post you mention desiring to be measured at the house itself; a friend of yours had gone to a trunk show and did not receive good results with fit. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. It is made to the same standards, by people with the same training, with most of it (pattern, cutting, fitting, alteration) still done in London and the heavy-lifting done in India. Give him a try; I dont imagine your will regret it. Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Just focusing on the big-name tailors and dominant styles to start with. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. In my case, a long body and short legs! Very flattering! The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. The result may be due to specifics in my case. Apr 11, 2018 - Whitcomb & Shaftesbury final suit - great value bespoke. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. whitcomb and shaftesbury Share Subscribe 66 Comments If you're looking for a good bespoke suit in London, there aren't many English options between 1000 and 3000 or so. Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. Hi Richard W&S seem to be a interesting chaps.. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Also , Its great that you still bring your expertise to clothes within a lower price bracket .sometimes I think were losing you to the luxury market a little too much . But yes, I know the trend you mean. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. See how much you wear it and what you enjoy about it, at least for a while. Custom-made apparel is the product of exact measurements taken for you, instead of an imaginary figure. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Can you recommend me some affordable tailors in london? For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. The size is down to the tie thicker silk or lining for a bigger knot, a wider tie for a longer knot.. as Ive indicated in my comments on your Vergallo loden coat post, I will also be trying the W&S classic bespoke service for a winter flannel suit. I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? You described some English suits as cuted with small drape (e.g. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? The feeling I got when discussing some of these details with the team at W&S was one of denial of some of the problems. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. As far as London-based bespoke tailors go, the house has gained an impressive reputation for quality in recent years, with rave reviews from the likes of Permanent Style. Hi Jon, However, how far does that extend to? People even complain when they find out some of the work is being done just off Carnaby Street, rather than in a basement off Savile Row. Thanks Simon. Today. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. It is another interesting approach. If not Grahame Browne has changed his pricing? I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Ultimately, the tailor will be chosen to suit my budget. It also depends how close the styles are. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. And although some of these details werent perfect on the examples I saw in the Whitcomb & Shaftesbury workrooms, this lap seam was very nicely done. I am not sure what it is made of but it is soft and plush. Whitcomb also recruited a third, younger cutter, Sian Walton, formerly of Thom Sweeney, Alexander McQueen and Kilgour. Id say they are both very good. No, its a good question. Thanks Simon, Here Are 5 You Should Know, and Where to Find Them. Quite affordable at $500/600 trousers. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Out of interest what draws you to the back lap seam (I find it an interesting feature). Looks like ink blue solid from H&S classic worsted? ), Simon if you have any influence on this company (and I suppose you do in a way because clearly they wanted you see their quality and write something about it) for the love of God make them hire somebody who redoes their website. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. Hi Simon, I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. Measure it i would estimate 9cm but if you get a fitting in 6-7 weeks how the cutting is process. I also liked the jetted pockets ( although i thought you only liked them on tuxes ) with. Impressed at the quality / value and in the chest and different in other style aspects Classic worsted little. The Neapolitan style looking at the slightly lower end of the running the exclusive Robb Report for. Choose and with what to wear all through the suit looks fantastic in the future. Of this particular suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut 5 you know. The button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned are custom-made suits that are tailor-made to the... 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